Travelling through Ancient Sites and Legends with
Pausanias

written by Ben Scolnic, Hamden, CT
edited by Altay Coskun, Waterloo, ON
2026

First folio of Pausanias’ Description of Greece, Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, Plut. 56.11, fol. 1r., Florence 1485 CE. Drawn from Wikipedia.

 
 

Pausanias was a Greek probably from Western Asia Minor, who lived in the Roman Empire at its height (2nd century CE). The entire Mediterranean world lay open to him, although we only know that he dedicated much time to visit and admire famous sites of the Greek Motherland, of which he prepared descriptions from autopsy to share with his contemporaries and the afterworld. His Hellados Perihegesis (“Travel through Greece”) is not known for its philosophical depth, coherent vision of history, or topographical scrutiny, but for the love of detail with which he accounts for the many minor and major pieces of art and monuments that he found exhibited throughout the cities or hidden in the temple treasuries. Since he was as interested in the artifacts themselves as in the stories told about them, his work has outlived the ages and became indispensable for ancient Greek art.

It is Rabbi Ben’s travel guide to go to when exploring sites and museums of ancient Greece - although his mind is the scene of a continual quarrel between them: the credulous reader ridiculed by the rational scholar. On his last trip he fell asleep while still being troubled by this tension. At some point - Ben cannot remember when or how - a creative force intervened and a door - hidden or at least unseen so far - opened to the litigants. They entered, took their seats on a wooden bench and listened to the middle-aged fully-bearded man in a grey tunic, lecturing to a very diverse class of men and women of all ages and dressed in the most diverse styles. He was just starting to speak, composed and slowly, but gradually began to raise and sometimes accelerate his voice, and to gesticulate with ever less restraint to make his points vividly …

Tondo of the Aison Cup (late 5th century BCE), showing the victory of Theseus over the Minotaur in the presence of Athena. MNA Inv11365 n1. Photograph: Marie-Lan Nguyen, 2 May 2008, drawn from Wikipedia.