Travelling through Ancient Sites and Legends with
Pausanias
written by Ben Scolnic, Hamden, CT
edited by Altay Coskun, Waterloo, ON
2026
First folio of Pausanias’ Description of Greece, Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, Plut. 56.11, fol. 1r., Florence 1485 CE. Drawn from Wikipedia.
Pausanias was a Greek probably from Western Asia Minor, who lived in the Roman Empire at its height (2nd century CE). The entire Mediterranean world lay open to him, although we only know that he dedicated much time to visit and admire famous sites of the Greek Motherland, of which he prepared descriptions from autopsy to share with his contemporaries and the afterworld. His Hellados Perihegesis (“Travel through Greece”) is not known for its philosophical depth, coherent vision of history, or topographical scrutiny, but for the love of detail with which he accounts for the many minor and major pieces of art and monuments that he found exhibited throughout the cities or hidden in the temple treasuries. Since he was as interested in the artifacts themselves as in the stories told about them, his work has outlived the ages and became indispensable for ancient Greek art.
It is Rabbi Ben’s travel guide to go to when exploring sites and museums of ancient Greece - although his mind is the scene of a continual quarrel between them: the credulous reader ridiculed by the rational scholar. On his last trip he fell asleep while still being troubled by this tension. At some point - Ben cannot remember when or how - a creative force intervened and a door - hidden or at least unseen so far - opened to the litigants. They entered, took their seats on a wooden bench and listened to the middle-aged fully-bearded man in a grey tunic, lecturing to a very diverse class of men and women of all ages and dressed in the most diverse styles. He was just starting to speak, composed and slowly, but gradually began to raise and sometimes accelerate his voice, and to gesticulate with ever less restraint to make his points vividly …
Tondo of the Aison Cup (late 5th century BCE), showing the victory of Theseus over the Minotaur in the presence of Athena. MNA Inv11365 n1. Photograph: Marie-Lan Nguyen, 2 May 2008, drawn from Wikipedia.
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When I began visiting ancient sites, I thought many of the old stories foolish and sometimes had a hard time holding back my laughter or my critical questions. After all, I was raised to be polite and not to offend my hosts or tour guides or even the whole city that was welcoming me.
Over time, I was ever more pleased with my self-restraint, as I noticed that a traveler who laughs at everything he is told soon learns nothing. And so I listened. I listened to priests who showed me the places where gods had stood, to old men who knew which hero lay beneath an ancient stone, to guides who could tell me why a spring had its name. I wrote down what they said, even when I did not believe them.
There is much that men believe merely because they have heard it since childhood. The poets teach it, the choruses repeat it, and before a boy is old enough to ask whether a thing could have happened, he has already learned that it did.
Consider Theseus. I do not doubt that Theseus lived and was a king. His descendants ruled after him. These are things that belong to history. But must I therefore believe that he fought a creature with the body of a man and the head of a bull?
I have seen many strange things in my travels. I have never seen such a creature.
When I was younger, I thought that settled the matter. Remove what is impossible and perhaps what remains is the truth. A king remains when the Minotaur is gone. Thus one separates the grain from the chaff.
But by the time I came to Arcadia, I had begun to wonder whether I had been too quick.
The Greeks of old who were accounted wise did not always speak plainly. They spoke in riddles. They hid one thing inside another. The tale of Cronus, which once seemed to me merely absurd, I came to suspect might contain a kind of wisdom that was lost when men began to demand that every ancient story speak as plainly as an inscription on stone.
This does not mean that I now believe everything I am told. Far from it. Travel has made me harder to deceive.
But it has also made me slower to laugh.
Perhaps there is more than one way for an old story to be true. Perhaps the marvelous thing that never happened may nevertheless preserve something that did.
And so I began collecting these stories, sometimes finding some deeper meaning in them myself, sometimes not, and sometimes only years later when I returned to my notes or told these stories in conversation with others.
Let me share some of these stories with you, and you may decide for yourselves if they have any value other than commemorating the cultural heritage of localized Greek communities.
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